When I arrived at Casa Mari albergue in Torres del Rio all the beds had been taken, so the hospitalera provided mattresses for latecomers on the flat roof. We had cover in case of rain and there was also a table and chairs so we could sit, relax and have a meal.
The village church marked the hours by the tolling of its great bell. Church bells were very common early in my camino, but became less so towards the end. I found them wonderfully comforting, marking the time as they had done for centuries, binding together their communities by common rituals and practices.
We looked out over burgeoning spring fields as we sat and ate in the fading afternoon. Below us in the courtyard, a large Italian group made an equally large and convivial communal meal.
At night we looked up to the sky and its field of stars (compostela) as millions of pilgrims before us had done, and fell asleep in clean, open air.
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I too stayed at CasaMari's on the mattress on the terrace. It was my favorite night of all. I could not see the stars for I had the full moon. I loved it although at times it seemed I had a beam of light directed at my face. I did not sleep well between the light, the tolling of the bells (on the quarter hour, by the way), and the occasional drizzle.... yet I loved it. Funny, eh?
It is simple but beautiful experiences like these that add so greatly to the Pilgrimage, giving it a spiritual dimension that lifts the journey far above the common run of tourist experiences.
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